I tried a $1,000 steak at the Fontainebleau Las Vegas hotel. It was the ultimate Sin City dining experience.
Within minutes of finding our table at Papi Steak, the flashy Miami transplant at the equally flashy Fontainebleau Las Vegas, an EDM song blasts from the speakers. Our server politely excuses himself, answering the siren call.
He joins the wave of waiters and dancers surrounding a nearby table, holding strobe lights and chanting "Hey! Hey! Hey!" in perfect unison. A woman ditches her dinner to join them, waving her napkin around like a tourist in Mykonos. We turn our heads to gawk as a man presents a briefcase that glows gold every time he teases it open.
Inside is a 55-ounce Australian purebred wagyu steak. It's branded right then and there, a plume of smoke rising above diners' heads like a new pope being announced at the Vatican.
You know that scene in "When Harry Met Sally" when Meg Ryan is trying to prove her point — quite loudly — at Katz's Deli, and an older lady turns to the waiter and says, "I'll have what she's having?" The Papi Steak Beef Case is kind of like that.
David "Papi" Einhorn, co-owner of Papi Steak, told me the highest number of Beef Cases sold in a single night is 78, a record the restaurant set during the 2024 Super Bowl in Las Vegas. I counted 15 during my two-hour dinner.
It's a savvy business strategy for a city that runs on extravagance and spectacle. One table orders a Beef Case, and the rest fall like dominoes. You can practically see the high rollers looking over and saying, "I'll have what they're having."
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But there'd be no $1,000 Beef Case without the original Papi steak, once just a fixture of Einhorn's star-studded barbecues. His 32-ounce Glatt Kosher dry-aged tomahawk steaks (and dairy-free secret sauce) were all over Instagram, catching the eye of David Grutman, the Groot Hospitality investor behind Miami nightlife staples like Komodo and LIV.
"He was like, 'Why don't you come grill it at my house?'" Einhorn told me. "So I flew all the meat down and made the secret sauce, and Leo DiCaprio and all the A-listers were there, and everyone went crazy for it."
Grutman put the Papi steak on Komodo's menu in 2018, and it was a hit. Einhorn said the Kardashian sisters were such fans, he'd be called into the kitchen to make it whenever they were in Miami.
A year later, Grutman and Einhorn opened the first Papi Steak restaurant in South Beach. When the Fontainebleau Las Vegas opened its doors in 2023, the pair knew it was time to take their concept out west.
Once again, the stars — including DiCaprio, David Beckham, Jennifer Lopez, and Tom Brady — followed.
The vibe at Papi Steak is pure Sin City. The tables are marble, the booths are red leather, and a blue chandelier sparkles at the center. The wallpaper is black, with fresh orchids perfuming the air.
I've visited Vegas over 20 times and seen my share of flashy restaurants. But as I dug into Papi Steak's dishes, I was delightfully surprised to find that this steakhouse wasn't just easy on the eyes.
My fiancé and I kicked things off with the $29 Caesar salad, which hit every note — crisp lettuce, a rich and tangy dressing, and some of the best croutons I've ever tasted. They had a satisfying crunch but were soft in the middle, with each bite revealing a deliciously herby center.
When I gushed about the croutons to our waiter, he said they were always made to order.
We also opted for the $21 latkes, among the Papi Steak dishes inspired by Einhorn's Jewish heritage.
With its light but firm texture and satisfyingly crispy crust, the latkes instantly won us over. The comforting dish paired deliciously with the sides of fresh apple sauce and crème fraîche.
We wiped both plates clean, just in time for our $1,000 Beef Case to arrive.
When Einhorn's butcher vendor first offered him a 55-ounce Australian wagyu for Papi Steak, he had no idea what to do with it. The wholesale price is the same as the most expensive steak on his menu.
Then, Einhorn remembered a gift he'd been given: a diamond briefcase with Papi Steak's logo emblazoned in gold. He decided to put the Australian wagyu in the briefcase and create the special show, realizing he could turn the Beef Case into a classic Vegas moment — no bottle service required.
"Today, a lot of people like to have a show, but they don't want to go to nightclubs that much," he said. "With this, they get the vibe, the music, everyone's around them, they feel special, they feel important, they had a great meal — all those things coming together is what makes the steak a really special experience."
The Beef Case isn't just literal smoke and mirrors. Our Australian wagyu — which could easily feed at least six people — was cooked to perfection, branded with the Papi Steak logo and whisked back to the kitchen following the show.
It glistened under the Vegas lights on a custom wooden platter, complete with four sauces to choose from.
I loved the steak's flawlessly charred edges, which gave way to the butter-soft meat. Einhorn's secret sauce had a surprising kick of sweetness, while the chimichurri provided a punch of fresh tanginess. My fiancé and I were in heaven with every bite.
As that scene in "When Harry Met Sally" proved, it's easy to fake a good time. And in a city like Las Vegas, plenty of hot spots use their Instagram clout and A-list clientele to mask a subpar dining experience.
Papi Steak actually has the food to back up all its hype. Plus, the attentive service was akin to what I've experienced at Michelin-starred restaurants.
Even if the Beef Case isn't in your budget, you could still have a great dinner at Papi Steak. Just don't be surprised if you turn to the waiter to say, "I'll have what they're having."
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