I Was Applying Sunscreen All Wrong Until a Dermatologist Told Me This

Protecting your skin from harmful UV rays is an essential part of any skin care routine, so it’s important to know how much sunscreen to use on your face. And if you aren’t wearing sunscreen daily, whether it be mineral sunscreen or chemical sunscreen, it’s time to get on board. When correctly applied, sunscreen combats premature aging, sunburn, and most importantly, skin cancer.

Or as Annette Czernik, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Stamford, Connecticut, says, “Daily sunscreen application is one of the best things you can do for your skin.”

How can you make sure you’re getting the full protection benefits from your sunscreen? First off, you’ll want to make sure you’re using a sufficient SPF. The American Academy of Dermatology Association recommends a broad-spectrum SPF of 30 or higher for the body and face. SPF 30 is the baseline, but many dermatologists agree SPF 50 is the gold standard. From 50 on, it doesn’t make that much of a difference.

According to Gretchen Frieling, MD, a triple board-certified dermatopathologist in Massachusetts, SPF 100 offers only a marginal amount of extra protection. “There is a heavy misconception by some consumers that a higher SPF means indefinite time in the sun, when in reality, the best practice is to reapply your sunscreen for every hour or two you are out in the sun, depending on your activity level and type,” she says.

And remember, your neck and décolletage are equally exposed to the same UV rays when you’re outside. “Patients don’t realize it’s not just the face that gets a significant amount of sun exposure,” says Taryn Huizenga, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Spring Street Dermatology in New York City, a Schweiger Dermatology Group practice. “Often, patients will also wear a hat with a brim. This may cover the face but may not adequately protect the neck or the décolletage. It’s very important to treat them the same and protect both with sunscreen every day.”

Keep reading for sunscreen need-to-knows, according to experts.

There are a few methods to make sure you’re applying the sufficient amount of sunscreen. According to Rachel Nazarian, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group, a good rule of thumb is the two-fingers rule. “Draw the sunscreen out lengthwise on both your index and middle fingers, roughly about half a teaspoon. Or if it’s easier to envision, try for around a nickel-size amount,” she says.

You want to aim for at least a thin layer all over the face, which achieves the SPF on the label. “The exact amount to achieve your sunscreen’s SPF is 2 milligrams of sunscreen per square centimeter of skin, but that’s too complicated to remember,” Dr. Nazarian explains. “The two-fingers rule can effectively help you protect your face with sunscreen, without too much hassle.”

“One mistake I find that most people make is using too little sunscreen,” Dr. Czernik says. “If you use too little sunscreen, you won’t be getting the protection that’s labeled on the bottle.” Like Dr. Nazarian, she recommends a nickel-sized dollop of sunscreen (about one-quarter teaspoon) to cover your face.

Dr. Czernik adds that the two-fingers guide is a great visual tool to use for applying sunscreen because not all faces or sunscreen formulas are alike. “The length of your index finger and middle finger covered in sunscreen is about how much you will need for your face,” she explains. “People have different-size faces, and there are different formulas, so you can use this as a guide. Make sure to cover your entire face, and don't forget the hairline, ears, around your jaw, and tops of your hands.”

Depending on the activity you’re engaging in, Dr. Nazarian says to reapply every two hours. “Or reapply anytime after sweating, exposure to water, or rubbing,” she says. If you’re worried about ruining your makeup, Dr. Nazarian points out that plenty of products make it easy to touch up your SPF.

“Because this can be a big ask, and super challenging for many people, I like to recommend various forms of sunscreen to make it more convenient when reapplying,” she says. “Sunscreen comes in many forms now, including powder (brush-on) and press-on (such as makeup cover-up and foundation), so many people just brush a powder or reapply makeup that has SPF, which allows them to keep their skin protected all day long.”

“For the face, I recommend a broad-spectrum sunscreen that is at least SPF 30 or higher,” says Dr. Huizenga. “Both mineral and chemical formulas work well, so the best one is the one you will actually wear every day.” She adds that the same rules apply to the neck and décolletage as well.

Dr. Nazarian prefers a formula that is oil-free and nongreasy to prevent breakouts, in addition to being a daily broad-spectrum, UVA- and UVB-blocking sunscreen. “One of my favorites is Clear Skin SPF 30 from Proactiv,” she says. “This particular one is lightweight and oil-controlling. The added panthenol and allantoin make it super hydrating and moisturizing as well.”

You should also find a formula that you actually like. “Ultimately, it’s really important to have a sunscreen that feels good on your skin, and that you enjoy wearing,” Dr. Nazarian says. “This helps with daily compliance and makes it more likely it will be applied every day, year-round—the way it’s meant to be.”

Dr. Czernik believes that one of the most effective (and most neglected) antiaging practices is applying daily sunscreen to your chest and décolletage. “The skin on your chest often develops wrinkles, discoloration, loss of elasticity, and crepey skin because it’s thinner and lacks as effective repair mechanisms as skin on other parts of your body,” she says. “It accrues a lot of sun damage over a person’s lifetime.”

The doctor recommends applying a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher sunscreen product to your neck, chest, and décolletage every morning along with your facial sunscreen. “Do this every day, even when it’s cloudy and even if you’re not going to be spending the day outdoors,” she says. “Sunscreen is key because you will still get incidental sun exposure from being out and about and from sunlight coming through windows all day long.”

According to Dr. Czernik, an SPF moisturizer will protect your skin as long as it is broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher. “Anything below that is likely insufficient sun protection to be relied on alone for daily use,” she says. “Keep in mind that even if you’re using an SPF 30 moisturizer, you still need to apply enough product to your skin to achieve that level of protection. Most people apply far too little.”

And if you’ll be outside for a prolonged period of time, exercising, or sitting directly in the sun, Dr. Czernik says you’re better off using a dedicated sunscreen and reapplying every two hours. For daily incidental exposure, however, a moisturizer with broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher is a way to combine steps in your skin care routine and still ensure that you’re using sun protection every day.

Yes, toweling off does affect sunscreen efficacy. “Toweling exerts friction on the skin, physically rubbing away sunscreen,” says Dr. Czernik. “I educate my patients that they should reapply sunscreen if they go swimming, sweat a lot, or towel off. They should do this even if it hasn’t been the recommended amount of time since their original application.”

And if you’re unsure, just reapply. “Frequent reapplication is equally as important as the actual initial SPF you apply,” she says.