I wasn’t into ‘twitching’ – then I went to Iceland to spot puffins

My eyebrows did rise when I was tasked with travelling to a rock in the middle of the Atlantic, to hop on a ferry to an even smaller rock, to look for some birds.

But with more than half (55%) of UK travellers eager to experience birdwatching on their next trip and Ariana Grande herself calling it her latest obsession, I thought I would see what it was all about.

Sure, I could test it out closer to home. But even with the best of binoculars, there’s one species I must leave Blighty to spot.

Puffins are the unofficial icon of Iceland, and with GetYourGuide now running excursions to their patch on the island of Vestmannaeyjar, I jumped on a three-hour flight from London to the Land of Fire and Ice.

These days, tourism is big business in Iceland. But it wasn’t always that way.

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Remember the 2010 eruption of Eyjafjallajökull? All those flights cancelled? It’s one the newsreaders probably want to forget:

Not a great week for airlines, but weirdly great for Iceland. Numbers flowing through Reykjavík International went from only around 500,000 prior to the eruption, to well over 2 million today. 

Now there are hotels everywhere, smooth transport links, a shiny new airport, and a general vibe that visitors aren’t just tolerated, but actively welcomed.

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It may not seem the most obvious of summer destinations, but with the UK and much of continental Europe sweltering through yet another record heatwave, interest is rising cooler places.

Just the other day, British Airways told Metro that searches to Reykjavík had risen by 74% on Thursday, 25 June, compared to the same day the previous week.

My eyebrows did the thing again, reading through the itinerary for the puffin and volcano tour the next day.

But as I would come to find out, my feet wouldn’t hurt as badly as I thought.

It starts with being picked up near your hotel by friendly guides like Thor.

Although the Icelandic language can look to English speakers like a cat walked across a keyboard, everyone has an expert grasp of English, making the language barrier non-existent.    

We glide down the highway that traverses the entire island towards the south coast, passing active geothermal areas puffing steam and generating that sweet, sweet free energy (electricity bills here commonly run about £6 a month). 

Meeting our electric ferry, I thought we would be continuing on foot, but then I realised the van comes too!

After 45 minutes at sea, and passing ‘the loneliest house in the world’, we arrive in the port next to the cruise ships on which you can also circumnavigate the country.

Loading back into our van, everyone is keen to see our avian friends, so Thor zips us up to a protected viewing area on the far side of the island. 

You get a preview walking up to the Stórhöfði lookout with the tiny birds swooping overhead, and then you’re amongst them. Up to a million pairs call the southern tip of the island home. 

Birdwatching always sounded like something you accidentally fall into in your 60s. 

But find yourself a quiet spot just off the trails and something clicks. 

Watching them bicker, swoop, vanish into burrows, and reappear like they forgot something is oddly absorbing. Not to mention they mate for life, which does warm your heart. 

Bjørn Penk grew up birdwatching, despite the name-calling and unkind looks he got in school.

‘Post-pandemic, something shifted in how people want to spend their time: slowly, outdoors, with their attention pointed at something real and unpredictable… In an age of relentless distraction, paying attention to birds turns out to be practice in paying attention, full stop.’

If you do happen to suffer from ornithophobia, Iceland, being built from the ground up for tourists post-eruption, has you covered. 

The landscape basically demands a four-wheel drive, so the quad bike ATV tour is less of a gimmick and more of a necessity that also reveals some history at your destination.

After zipping down the formidable black sand beaches, you arrive at the wreck of a US Navy plane.

All crew members miraculously survived, and the weathered wreckage has since become one of Iceland’s most iconic and surreal tourist attractions, plus Justin Beiber’s music video set.

The tour also includes a spin around the south coast waterfalls, where, if you’re braced for a soaking, you can walk behind for an unparalleled view. 

After a day spent traversing the island, it’s time for some well needed recovery. 

Sky Lagoon, an oceanside geothermal spa, is more than just floating around in some natural spring water. 

It’s a seven-step ritual that throws you from soothing warmth to refreshing cold plunges – all of which leave you recharged for the next day.

Step 1 – Laug (Lagoon): Slow down and relax in the lagoon 
Step 2 – Kuldi (Cold): Cool down with the cold plunge 
Step 3 – Ylur (Warmth): Relax and enjoy the views in the sauna 
Step 4 – Súld (Drizzle): Refresh in a cold mist 
Step 5 – Mýkt (Softness): Invigorate and exfoliate with a body scrub 
Step 6 – Gufa (Steam) – Chill out in the steam room 
Step 7 – Saft (Juice) Taste the essence of krækiber — the crowberries that dot our lava fields.

With tourism numbers at an all time high, Iceland offers a diverse range of places to call home.

For the explorers, a lap of the island in your campervan is easily done.

But for those happy to settle in, Grandi by Center Hotels blends clean Scandinavian design with spa access and buffet breakfast of course. 

Don’t miss your chance to try a delicious sample of Icelandic lamb with a glass of red. 

It’s also located near the coastal walks along the Old Harbour, which also offer several supermarket choices if your looking to save some cash.

Two full meals often come in above £100 when dining out, so now’s the time to start saving.

Or maybe you could invite Ariana to come with you. She might take care of the bill.

Jed was a guest of GetYourGuide, but don’t expect us to sugarcoat anything – our reviews are 100% independent.

Rooms at Grandi by Center Hotels start at £134 a night. 

GetYourGuide’s Puffin and Volcano Tour in Westman Islands start at £200, the South Coast, Plane Wreck, & Beach ATV Tour from £219 and Sky Lagoon Entrance Pass With 7-Step Spa Ritual from £87.

Flights from London start from £106 on EasyJet or £221 on Icelandair.

Your exclusive seven-day guide to travelling with confidence from Metro's resident travel expert, Alice Murphy.

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