The stunning Sicilian beach town loved by Italians that you won't have heard of
I arrived in San Vito Lo Capo expecting little more than a perfect beach. But what I hadn’t anticipated were the memorable meals, dramatic scenery and relaxed pace that forced me to slow down.
While international tourists tend to flock to Taormina, Cefalù and Ortigia, this former fishing village on Sicily’s north-west coast is comparatively overlooked by British travellers. It is popular with Italians – a 2024 report by tourism research company JFC Panorama Turismo ranked it among the country’s most popular seaside destinations – but it still offers better value for money than many of the island’s better-known eastern resorts. It also has one of the best beaches in the world, according to this year’s Corona 100 Best Beaches guide.
Framed by the cliffs of Monte Monaco, a 530m-tall limestone promontory, San Vito Lo Capo has resisted overdevelopment. The low-rise whitewashed houses, family-run B&Bs and bougainvillea-lined streets contribute to its village atmosphere.
The world feels like a difficult place at the moment, and it can feel very hard sometimes to find things to be thankful for; when we are overwhelmed, we have less capacity to notice and reflect on the good things. Yet, ironically, proactively cultivating gratitude is one of the things that can actually help us feel less stressed.
Instead of seeing something as a problem, try to see the opportunities within it.
Our brains are very receptive and what we read or write can alter our emotional system.
This will not only make you feel good, but you will also get a positive response from others.
Throughout your day, try to notice all the things that are going well; has someone opened a door for you, or smiled?
By being thankful for the small things every day, we are far more likely to be and stay healthy so that we can enjoy them.
Leon Poultney, a writer who specialises in cars, gives his EV recommendations, and the ones that should be avoided.
Starts at £22,995 for the smaller battery
Available with either a 40kWh battery or a larger 52kWh pack, that offers almost 255 miles, the latest, retro-inspired Renault 5 is both a joy to behold and a hoot to drive.
The interior has been lavished with a level of detail that’s typically reserved for more expensive cars.
It offers a remarkable 491 mile range on a single charge from the 85kWh battery.
It is a technological masterclass inside with the ability to option screens that span the entire width of the dashboard, including an optional display for the front passenger.
Priced from £37,400
It’s a lot of money to part with, but this is arguably all the car you will ever need.
The £89,000 Macan is a premium SUV that somehow manages to blend Porsche’s reputation for dynamics and sporty driving with everyday practicality.
The 95kWh batteries can go from 10 to 80 per cent in as little as 21 minutes from the fastest public charging outlets.
With the business class-style six seat configuration costing a staggering £76,995, it is by far the most expensive Kia ever made, but it backs up its financial demands with a suite of genuinely useful and impressive onboard technology.
MG IM6
It’s fast, goes a long way between stops and charges relatively quickly but the interior is bland, the onboard technology is infuriating and the experience is devoid of emotion.
All of its gadgetry can’t disguise the fact that performance is weak, even for a typically zippy EV, the ride is fussy at slower speeds and it’s not in the least bit enjoyable to drive on a country road.
It’s comfortable to hold, with a point sharp enough for scoring pastry.
For unbeatable searing and heat-retention, cast iron is the top choice.
Priced at just £22, I’ve yet to find another board that matches it for sheer value and quality.
Pyrex jug
It is the perfect vessel for blending smooth sauces, melting butter, or warming stock. It won’t stain like plastic and the red measurements never fade.
Salter scales
“I’ve had my slim little set of Salter Disc Scales for over a decade, and I’m delighted to see they are still made to exactly the same reliable design today.”
It uses photo-etched stainless steel teeth that stay razor-sharp for a decade, something the lookalike copycats simply can’t match.
It’s an essential for everything from making velvety soup to getting the lumps out of white sauce.
As well as delivering great results, cafetieres are easy to clean and there’s no ongoing filter paper costs or pod recycling to deal with.
Oxo peeler
What truly sets it apart is the chunky, rubberised handle that absorbs pressure and stays completely non-slip, even if your hands are wet. It is inexpensive and incredibly durable.
Falcon pie dish
Made by fusing porcelain onto heavy-gauge steel for smooth durability, it is dishwasher, freezer, hob, air-fryer and oven-safe.
Psychiatrist and neuroscientist Dr Amir Levine, author of bestselling book Attached, explains why we behave the way we do in love.
Start with your own behaviours
The foundation of a secure, connected life is being what I call CARRP: that means being consistent, available, responsive, reliable and predictable. All of these qualities can be enacted in small gestures every day.
Express your needs
People need consistency and connection to feel safe. This is not, ‘You hurt my feelings by never replying to me’, it’s more ‘this is the kind of contact that helps me feel secure’.
If a relationship repeatedly inflames your nervous system, you need to disengage and deprioritise it.
You don’t need hundreds of friends. You need people and places that regularly remind you that you belong.
Humans are much more complicated than: ‘this happened to you, therefore you are doomed to be anxious’.
When something unsettles you in a relationship, your first reaction is not always the most accurate one.
If you’re anxious, your brain may jump very quickly to: ‘this is the beginning of the end’. If you’re avoidant, your brain may say: ‘this person wants too much from me, I need to get away’. So one very practical thing you can always do is pause and ask: ‘What would a secure person do here?’
When people talk about loneliness, they often assume it means you don’t have enough people in your life. But you can be surrounded by people and still feel lonely if those relationships leave you feeling excluded, ignored or disconnected.
A bowl of cereal and glass of orange juice
More refined cereals are digested quickly, and fruit juice, whilst one of your five-a-day, contains less fibre than whole fruit. This might mean you find yourself hungry again within 1-2 hours of eating this breakfast.
Swap the orange juice for a whole orange, the cereal for oats and milk or serve it with Greek yoghurt or a boiled egg. This would increase the fibre and protein content; two nutrients strongly linked with fullness.
These pastries are made primarily from refined flour and butter, and are relatively low in protein and fibre.
It is mostly carbohydrate and without protein or fibre, it is digested quickly, leaving you feeling hungry.
Shop-bought packs can contain a lot of white rice, which is digested quickly, and the protein content is often modest.
On its own, it is often very low in protein and calories, so hunger can return quickly.
Unless it’s loaded with veggies, it’s probably pretty low in fibre.
Liquids are generally less filling as they require little chewing which may not trigger satiety signals.
They are ideal for a quick pick-me-up, but if reducing hunger is what you’re after, it’d be better to swap it out.
A full-fat plain Greek yoghurt with berries and seeds tends to be much more filling due to the protein, fat and fibre.
On an empty stomach, it can actually increase your appetite.
Will Harlow, a physiotherapist
for the over-50s and author of Independence for Life, shares
the key signs you’re ageing
badly – and what to do about it.
Ageing well is maintaining the ability to do what you want you want for as long as you want without needing help. Everyone is talking about longevity but what’s the point in living longer if the last decade is painful and you’re [totally] reliant on people?”
When people retire, they often put their feet up and stop. Your body really is use it or lose it.
Throughout our entire lives, Harlow says we need between seven and nine hours of sleep.
The lack of connection can increase the risk of premature death by
as much as 29 per cent.
It really is the proxy for
overall independence.
The more muscle mass you have, the less chance of heart disease, diabetes, falls and even anxiety, depression and dementia.
The brain can be linked to muscle mass too, Harlow says. It’s not just about being able to lift things. It gives you more energy, better sleep and you’ll look and feel better.
Do short bursts of exercise, between 30 and 60 seconds, in otherwise dead time during the day.
Take joints through a full range of motion for five minutes to loosen it before getting up.
It can increase the decline of muscle mass and bone density, which needs to be avoided.
Harlow advises 1.6 grams per kilogram of body weight to stop muscle loss alongside resistance training.
Harlow finds that many patients put off making a change to their lifestyle until their lives are consumed by pain.
For most people, it’s about reducing the number of times per week you’re exercising, not reducing intensity.
But you should be prepared to keep an open mind.
We’ve compiled the sectors hiring graduate roles, what degree is required, and what they pay.
of employers offered entry-level
positions from July.
That is up nearly 15 per cent from the same period last year.
But graduate unemployment rose to six per cent in 2025 and 700,000 jobless graduates were claiming benefits.
Portman graduates start on £36,000 for the two-year programme and the education you need to apply is a minimum “ABB” of A-levels, and a 2:1 or above university degree. But not in a specific subject.
What makes it particularly rewarding is that there’s always something to learn.
Nearly half (47 per cent) of trade and logistics companies will be giving graduates a go this year.
Salaries start at £30,000 with an uncapped bonus, rising to £50,000 plus a company car as a senior account partner.
More than half (52 per cent) of UK tech and IT firms are actively looking for graduates.
Successful entry-level candidates can earn a basic salary of up to £35,000, with the opportunity to triple that within their first three years of working.
46 per cent of public sector, health and social services organisations are also ready to take graduates, according to a survey by Manpower.
According to Waitrose, a dinner party revival is underway led by younger people trying to reduce the cost of getting together.
The i Paper food writer Sophie Morris [below] asks chefs for their best ideas for hosting at home.
People will feast on the
bread, and then need less fish/steak/expensive whatever. All small plates restaurants know this: this is why the first thing on the menu is always artisan bread and butter.
Chef and food writer Helen Graham turns vegetables into centrepieces to cut down on meat and fish expenses.
Graham’s recipes include a braised cabbage with a preserved lemon sauce, a roast cauliflower with saffron, and harrisa roast carrots with mango labneh.
Guests will always appreciate a stellar interpretation of the ordinary. Think lasagna or curry.
Cooking dinner for your guests is spoiling them – you’re being generous with your time, your effort, and your home. So don’t feel the need to go overboard elsewhere.
Ask friends to bring a contribution, be it a nibble or a pudding.
[Presentation] can be the key to elevating something . Spaghetti and tomato sauce suddenly looks like a feast when tumbled on a lovely big plate, dressed with olive oil and parmesan and placed in the middle of the table.
Have one expensive filling, like shredded chicken, and two cheaper options, like refried beans, says Ella Risbridger.
Shop-bought ice cream is so easily zhuzhed up with the help of handy toppings, says Eleanor Steafel.
The headline 3km-long beach has been dubbed the “Caribbean of Sicily”, thanks to its soft white sand and crystal-clear water. This spectacular mountain-meets-sea setting fills up quickly in the summer months, so I arrived at 8.30am to secure a front-row spot with two sunbeds and a parasol (rental €20) in the public section. I could see as far as the 19th-century lighthouse, where the sandy beach gives way to jagged volcanic rock and deep rock pools, but was otherwise content to enjoy the perfect view.
There are wilder beaches just south of San Vito Lo Capo. I took the free bus to the Gulf of Macari, home to a hamlet featured in the hit Italian TV mystery series Makari. I walked past the rocky shores of Cala dell’Isulidda to Spiaggia del Bue Marino, a pebbly cove that was once named Italy’s most beautiful beach by the environmental organisation Legambiente. I ended at the sweeping Baia Santa Margherita, a wild public beach with turquoise water framed by the dramatic, jagged peak of Monte Cofano. There are no buildings here – just a wide crescent of fine sand that dissolves into rocky reefs that are perfect for snorkelling.
I stayed until dusk – the west-facing beach is spectacular at sunset – before I walked back up to the road to catch the return bus, as the limestone peak of Monte Cofano was silhouetted against a sky that was glowing in shades of orange and pink.
Just outside San Vito, the Zingaro was established in 1981 as Sicily’s first protected nature reserve (tickets €5). Roads and public transport are limited, so I explored its seven coves on a Gioiosa Tours boat excursion (€40). As we cruised beneath towering limestone cliffs, the captain steered the boat to Cala dei Leoni, where we swam in an electric blue glow in what locals call the Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto).
Between swimming stops, the crew served pane cunzato, a traditional seasoned bread, with aperitivo, to a soundtrack of 1980s Italian classics. Before long, we were all were singing and dancing together – a celebration of Sicilian hospitality.
Back in town, families were lingering for hours in the sea and over long lunches, children played outside the 14th-century fortress-church – the Sanctuary of San Vito – and as evening fell, the passeggiata picked up along the Via Savoia as the lights came on.
I quickly fell into a ritual of joining a silent anti-gravity yoga class on the beach beneath Monte Monaco, before heading to my favourite sunset viewpoint: the historic lighthouse at the northern end of the town.
By then, it would be time to eat. San Vito’s cuisine reflects both its fishing heritage and Sicily’s centuries of North African influence. The town is known for its international Cous Cous Festival in late September, and you’ll find it on many menus around town.
Trattoria du Lantirneri, run by two brothers in their grandmother’s former home, served one of my favourite meals, San Vito fish cous cous.
There are modern places to eat fresh takes on Sicilian cuisine too, such as Osteria Ittico, overlooking the harbour and serving the day’s catch alongside its signature mezzi paccheri pasta with anchovies and burrata, and Ciauruosteria, where you might find raw red prawns with tuna tartare and marinated swordfish.
I soon came to see why Italian holidaymakers love San Vito Lo Capo. Enjoying a caldo freddo – a rich contrast of cold gelato, rum-soaked sponge cake and hot dark chocolate – I realised I had come for the beach but that I was also leaving with memories of the wild coastline, local traditions, outstanding food and unhurried hospitality.
There are direct flights to Palermo or Trapani from several UK cities.
Palermo is about 90 minutes by bus from San Vito Lo Capo. Trapani is a 30-minute bus ride.
Hotel Ciuri Di Mari has contemporary Sicilian interiors, excellent breakfasts and is an easy walk to both the beach and the town centre. Double rooms start from €100 B&B.
Residence Il Baglio offers spacious self-catering apartments set around a traditional Sicilian courtyard with balcony. These are within easy walking distance of San Vito Lo Capo’s beach and historic centre, and start from €60 per night.
Hotel Piccolo Mondo is a long-established, family-run hotel moments from the beach, with
bright rooms and a rooftop terrace. Doubles from €60 B&B.